Image by rsambrook via Flickr
Sometimes an idea about a technique is hard to imagine in “real life” terms. Debra’s written many times about her easy faux wood graining technique and how FABULOUSLY it works on straight surfaces (items without grooves or carving). But… what if you wanted to create a faux wood grain on a carved or turned post? Would the same technique still work?
Here is just that question from a newsletter subscriber:
I have purchased a metal bed with “twisted” metal (like rope is twisted) posts with finial tops finished to resemble cherry wood. I would like to refinish them to resemble oak to match the remaining furniture. I have read where you suggest using a base of yellow ocher with a burnt umber glaze and a chip brush. Do you think this technique would work on the twisted metal or do you have other suggestions?
Well…the short answer is “Yes!” 
First, Debra suggests priming the metal with a stain blocking primer. Zinsser’s B-I-N2 Stain Blocking Primer Sealer would be GREAT for this! It’ll alleviate the worry of any rust or old finish bleeding into the new faux wood grain finish. Remember…prep work is always key to a great finish.
The base coat is the Yellow Ocher color you mentioned. You can pick that up at any craft store… even “WallyWorld” should have some in stock. It’s a color not a brand. Any brand will do.
For the graining: remember to use a brown that resembles the darkest brown of your oak grain. You should check the graining on the other furniture in the room to figure out this color of paint. You could even hold up paint chips to the other furniture to get it as close as possible.
The brush we recommend you use is a simple inexpensive “chip” brush. You can get these at any hardware, craft or, again, good ol’ “WallyWorld” store. The reason we recommend using this style of brush is for the rough texture of the bristles. And… because it’s cheap!! That means you can just throw it away after you complete the faux wood graining project. Three cheers for no cleaning of brushes when you’re done!!! 
Now, the difference in using this technique for turned or carved work is that if you let the faux graining glaze collect in the grooves the furniture will look “antiqued” and not like realistic wood. So…you’ll need to have a dry, clean, chip brush on hand while you are “graining” your piece.
Use this dry brush to carefully “pull” the extra glaze away from the grooves. The idea is to get the wood faux graining to be the same throughout the entire piece of furniture. Don’t let it pool in the crevices and grooves. Use the dry brush to “soak it up” and leave those grooves the same as the rest of the “graining” in tone.
For more detailed instructions on faux wood graining you should check out Debra’s video/DVD. You can purchase it over on the right side of this page. You’ll have to scroll down a bit…little further…keep going….it’s after the faux brick video…. OR…you can just click on this handy dandy link: The Beginner Guides To Professional Finishes – Faux Wood Graining . Thought you might like to investigate it…and we’re thoughtful like that. 
Now ….get out there and SPLASH some paint around.
